Bio
Joan Burstein founded the London store Browns with her husband, Sidney, in 1970. Initially a small boutique housed on the ground floor of 27 South Molton Street, Browns rapidly expanded through five connecting Georgian town houses, providing an edited selection of the very best in contemporary fashion. Burstein has an innate flair for spotting fresh talent and is famously credited with discovering names such as Alexander McQueen, John Galliano and Christopher Kane as well as introducing Jil Sander, Donna Karan, Giorgio Armani and Comme des Garçons to London. Browns has continued to champion talent over the last 44 years and more recently has been the first to support a new generation of designers, including Gareth Pugh, Ostwald Helgason and Meadham Kirchhoff. In 2006, she was awarded a CBE in acknowledgement of her support of the British Fashion Industry. Today Burstein works alongside her two children, with her son Simon as Chief Executive Officer and her daughter Caroline as Creative Director.
Portrait by Billie Sheepers
Q&A
How closely do you follow fashion?
Design Museum
I’ve been in the industry for over 60 years and it is as much a part of my personal life as it is my professional. I follow it very closely not only because it’s part of my job but because it’s something I love, something I hold a deep passion for.
Joan Burstein
Do you read a fashion magazine on a regular basis?
Design Museum
The press team at Browns keep me abreast of what is important and relevant across all of the publications. When I have time I like to read through magazines more visually than cover to cover, but really I’m more looking for where Browns is featured!
Joan Burstein
When did you become aware of fashion?
Design Museum
I’ve always been immersed in fashion; it’s always been a part of my life. My aunts were ‘court dress makers’ and my mother was a tailoress so my clothes were always made for me. I remember most days after school I would go to my aunt’s salon and workroom in Camden Town because it fascinated me! There were only two instances that clothes were bought for me, the first was when the Houndsditch warehouse created Shirley Temple style dresses and the second when they sold their Scarlett O Hare cotton dress inspired by Vivien Leigh in the film “Gone With The Wind.”
Joan Burstein
How would you describe your relationship with clothes?
Design Museum
Personal and precious, I have a great admiration for pieces that are inspirational. The clothing I wear has got to make me feel good as well as look good.
Joan Burstein
When did you develop your own ‘style’ - do you feel that you have one - what is your basic 'look'?
Design Museum
My own style really developed in the 40s. I remember buying a beautiful Christian Dior grey two-piece and also a couple of long dresses by “Lady in Black” who was one of the designers of the moment. My style has always been quite understated, but never dull; I’m always drawn to pieces that have a certain ‘handwriting.’
Joan Burstein
Do you have a preference for particular shapes, colours, fabrics or textures?
Design Museum
I prefer loose shapes and soft sensual fabrics. I also tend to gravitate towards navy blue, black and white, rarely pastels!
Joan Burstein
Who are your favourite designers and why (historical and contemporary)?
Design Museum
Historically when Karl Lagerfeld was at the helm of Chloe I wore a lot of Chloe! I used to wear a lot of Sonia Rykiel; just like Chanel her clothes could be identified by their shape. Jean Muir’s accent was always on silk jersey. John Galliano’s collections were always exciting and never the same. Contemporary designers that I love are Dries Van Noten, I admire his sense of colour and the ease with which his clothes can be worn. Marni is also always modern and I love Lanvin because Alber loves women!
Joan Burstein
Do you use a personal shopper?
Design Museum
I don’t use a personal shopper myself as I believe when you shop for yourself that’s how you develop your own personal relationship with clothes and fashion. However, a personal stylist can really help you learn about what trends or designers work for your body shape. It’s all about learning, the more you shop, the more you learn.
Joan Burstein
How much do you involve your partner in clothes buying?
Design Museum
I always valued Sidney’s opinion and he used to love how I dressed, but I never really involved him in my purchases.
Joan Burstein
How many pairs of shoes or handbags do you have?
Design Museum
At first, my love for shoes started with Tilbury shoes, then Maud Frizon and more recently Salvatore Ferragamo’s ‘Audrey’ named after Audrey Hepburn. I have more handbags than shoes though, about 30 in total.
Joan Burstein
How important is hair and make-up to you?
Design Museum
Hair and Grooming is very important to me, make-up not so much. I regularly get my hair done at Joseph Koniak’s salon, his father Harvey Collis invented finger drying and Joseph always finger dries my hair. I believe that if you have a good cut you can style your hair yourself. As one gets older I don’t believe you should wear too much make-up, just enough to cover your imperfections without focusing on them.
Joan Burstein
Do you buy seasonally or when the need or mood dictates?
Design Museum
Both! I’m fortunate enough to have the opportunity to buy pieces before they reach the shop floor, but I usually don’t as I know my mood towards the piece may change with time. Every season I make sure I buy sweaters that will last all season, a dress that will take me from day to evening and a good pair of trousers. The only piece in my wardrobe that I can really consider an impulse buy is my Loree Rodkin customized Rolex diamond watch & bracelet. The matching bracelet wasn’t necessary, but I had to have it!
Joan Burstein
Is there a difference between your public and private wardrobe - if so, what are the reasons behind this?
Design Museum
No, there isn’t a difference at all; I choose my outfits so that they will take me from home and to the office. The only thing I may change into is a piece of cashmere as it’s soft and comfortable for relaxing in at home.
Joan Burstein
How do you view fashion and clothes in relation to your professional standing? To what extent does your professional role inform your fashion choices?
Design Museum
I view them very seriously, my career in this industry has led me to be able to view fashion from all different angles; I’ve viewed clothes from a buyer’s perspective, a retailer’s, a mentor and a consumer.
Joan Burstein
To what extent does your professional role inform your fashion choices?
Design Museum
I am in a very fortunate position to have the designers of my choice stocked at Browns and I always select my wardrobe from these.
Joan Burstein
Does fashion empower you? What outfit would most empower you and why?
Design Museum
I don’t think fashion empowers me as such because, I like to empower myself and I do believe that comes from within. I understand however, how fashion can be used as armour to make you feel more confident and I also believe clothing can have a strong emotional effect. I have a stunning Alaia dress, which he made for me personally whenever I wear it, it brings back wonderful memories of when I first met him and realized what a complete gem he is.
Joan Burstein
What does fashion in the future need to do to help women / to empower them?
Design Museum
A woman ultimately has to have the confidence in herself, that is what will empower her. The fashion industry however can help install this confidence by supporting women professionally and stopping the idealism of the size zero. I think generally young women need to see promoted that beauty is on the inside, not just the outside.
Joan Burstein
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